![]() Plus, if there's ever any trouble, a quick reference can help save time and money. By understanding the wiring diagram, it's possible to identify the parts associated with it, as well as the functions of those parts. However, due to its age, beyond the basics of tuning and general maintenance, it's important to know how to work with the wiring diagram of a 1965 Ford Thunderbird. This beauty isn't just an impressive exterior the iconic 315 horsepower 6.4L V8 engine inside is meant to be admired and appreciated. Not only is it a beauty to behold, but this car has timeless characteristics, making it highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. Hope this helps and good luck.The 1965 Ford Thunderbird Wiring Diagram: Everything You Need to Know Chances are, when you think of classic American cars, the 1965 Ford Thunderbird most likely comes to mind. Lastly, make sure to replace wires to brake switch if not already done. There is nothing else to check as long as both taillight bulbs are good. If both connectors have continuity the only other thing that can cause no brake lights is the actual turn signal switch in the steering column. (I cannot remember where but should be under the dash). There is a connector somewhere between the headlight switch and the connector that is located in the trunk. If good, follow the black wire from the headlight switch to the tail lights. If no continuity, replace switch (or rheostat if you can find one). If not, check for continuity between terminal R (black wire) and terminal I (blue wire with red band) while rotating the rheostat. Did dash lights work when checked earlier? If yes then switch and rheostat are good. If you get continuity the switch is good, if not it means the internal 12amp circuit breaker is faulty, replace headlight switch. ![]() With the power still off and switch hanging where you can see it, connect a continuity tester from terminal B (yellow wires) to terminal A (green wire for taillights and blue with black band for clock). ![]() If no power, disconnect the battery and take headlight switch out by pulling the shaft out after pushing the small plunger on top center of the switch (the only thing with no wires attached) then unscrew the nut from the front side. If you get voltage then the headlight switch is good. Check for power to the fuse with tester and good ground. Does the clock work? If no clock, check the inline fuse (blue wire with black band). Do the dash lights work? Make sure to rotate the headlight switch while checking. Did the taillights work? If not the turn signal switch in the column is bad. Try jumping a wire from the Green wire to the Green wire with Orange band. Also check the wiring junction block under the dash at the bottom of the steering column where the turn signal wires also plug in for a loose connection. If no lights, leave the wires hooked together and go to trunk and wiggle wires on and around the bulbs for possible loose ground. If you get brake lights, replace the switch with one available at most parts stores locally for about $10.00, very easy and usually don't loose any fluid while doing this. Try unplugging both wires and hook them together. The brake lights could be the brake switch on the brake line junction block (round with 2 terminals and threaded in the block) below the master cylinder which happens most often. If this is blown, check the wiring to the map light and door switches for bare wires especially where the wires exit the kick panels and enter the door jamb. The 7.5 amp fuse on the headlight switch only powers the courtesy lamp in the dash and the door jamb switches. If you use the search function and search for turn signal or brake lights you may get more information. Here is a tutorial I typed a while back helping someone else.
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